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Hacker NewsInteractive pinout for the Raspberry Pi Pico 2<a href="https://pico2.pinout.xyz" rel="nofollow noopener" translate="no" target="_blank">https://pico2.pinout.xyz</a><a href="https://mastodon.social/tags/HackerNews" class="mention hashtag" rel="nofollow noopener" target="_blank">#HackerNews</a> <a href="https://mastodon.social/tags/InteractivePinout" class="mention hashtag" rel="nofollow noopener" target="_blank">#InteractivePinout</a> <a href="https://mastodon.social/tags/RaspberryPiPico" class="mention hashtag" rel="nofollow noopener" target="_blank">#RaspberryPiPico</a> <a href="https://mastodon.social/tags/TechInnovation" class="mention hashtag" rel="nofollow noopener" target="_blank">#TechInnovation</a> <a href="https://mastodon.social/tags/MakerCommunity" class="mention hashtag" rel="nofollow noopener" target="_blank">#MakerCommunity</a> <a href="https://mastodon.social/tags/DIYElectronics" class="mention hashtag" rel="nofollow noopener" target="_blank">#DIYElectronics</a>

RommudohHere are a few more boards, one for 4S and two for 3S. The last one is attached to a triple 18650 battery holder and will be tested with real cells soon. So far all tests look fine. The 4S and 3S LiIon were soldered using hot air and solder paste (except the MOSFETs, those were already soldered using a normal iron). This was a very pleasant experience and I will use it more often. <a href="https://social.tchncs.de/tags/soldering" class="mention hashtag" rel="nofollow noopener" target="_blank">#soldering</a> <a href="https://social.tchncs.de/tags/diyelectronics" class="mention hashtag" rel="nofollow noopener" target="_blank">#diyelectronics</a> <a href="https://social.tchncs.de/tags/BMS" class="mention hashtag" rel="nofollow noopener" target="_blank">#BMS</a> <a href="https://social.tchncs.de/tags/lithiumbattery" class="mention hashtag" rel="nofollow noopener" target="_blank">#lithiumbattery</a> #18650 <a href="https://social.tchncs.de/tags/BQ77915" class="mention hashtag" rel="nofollow noopener" target="_blank">#BQ77915</a> <a href="https://social.tchncs.de/tags/hotairsoldering" class="mention hashtag" rel="nofollow noopener" target="_blank">#hotairsoldering</a> <a href="https://social.tchncs.de/tags/solderpaste" class="mention hashtag" rel="nofollow noopener" target="_blank">#solderpaste</a>

RommudohAnd I finished <a href="https://social.tchncs.de/tags/soldering" class="mention hashtag" rel="nofollow noopener" target="_blank">#soldering</a> the first <a href="https://social.tchncs.de/tags/BMS" class="mention hashtag" rel="nofollow noopener" target="_blank">#BMS</a> board. It's configured for a 5S LiIon <a href="https://social.tchncs.de/tags/battery" class="mention hashtag" rel="nofollow noopener" target="_blank">#battery</a> with 5A output current limit. Here the finished board and the test setup. So far, it works as intended. It cuts discharge at 4.91A, or when battery voltage drops below 14.5V. Charging is disabled when voltage gets too high. I'll still have to test the temperature behavior, and how balancing works. When I'm satisfied, I'll try with real cells. <a href="https://social.tchncs.de/tags/diyelectronics" class="mention hashtag" rel="nofollow noopener" target="_blank">#diyelectronics</a> <a href="https://social.tchncs.de/tags/BQ77915" class="mention hashtag" rel="nofollow noopener" target="_blank">#BQ77915</a>

botvolutionQuestion for the more industrial electronics/electrical peoples here:I've got a little build on the stocks which requires quite a few wire-to-pcb connections. The BOM uses TE MTA-156, but those really require a special (absurdly expensive) tool to attach the wires to the female connector.I'll sodder the wires direct to the PCBs if I have to, but I wondered what other neat, pluggy, inexpensive solutions there might be?<a href="https://mastodon.sdf.org/tags/diyelectronics" class="mention hashtag" rel="nofollow noopener" target="_blank">#diyelectronics</a> <a href="https://mastodon.sdf.org/tags/electronicsdiy" class="mention hashtag" rel="nofollow noopener" target="_blank">#electronicsdiy</a>

botvolutionI cultivate a curious garden.<a href="https://mastodon.sdf.org/tags/SynthDIY" class="mention hashtag" rel="nofollow noopener" target="_blank">#SynthDIY</a> <a href="https://mastodon.sdf.org/tags/DIYElectronics" class="mention hashtag" rel="nofollow noopener" target="_blank">#DIYElectronics</a>

BetmigNew robotics build video!I assembled the CYBUG Scarab — no code, no microcontroller, just classic analog electronics and emergent behavior.Photophobic by design, this little beast actually avoids light ☀️👀Full soldering/build walkthrough + a fun "HE LIVES!" moment at the end:🔗 <a href="https://youtu.be/tU2SRIDwQmU" rel="nofollow noopener" translate="no" target="_blank">https://youtu.be/tU2SRIDwQmU</a><a href="https://mastodon.social/tags/Robotics" class="mention hashtag" rel="nofollow noopener" target="_blank">#Robotics</a> <a href="https://mastodon.social/tags/BEAMrobotics" class="mention hashtag" rel="nofollow noopener" target="_blank">#BEAMrobotics</a> <a href="https://mastodon.social/tags/DIYElectronics" class="mention hashtag" rel="nofollow noopener" target="_blank">#DIYElectronics</a> <a href="https://mastodon.social/tags/AnalogTech" class="mention hashtag" rel="nofollow noopener" target="_blank">#AnalogTech</a> <a href="https://mastodon.social/tags/BetmigBuilds" class="mention hashtag" rel="nofollow noopener" target="_blank">#BetmigBuilds</a> <a href="https://mastodon.social/tags/JCMeducation" class="mention hashtag" rel="nofollow noopener" target="_blank">#JCMeducation</a>

Varbin :arctic_fox: :gay_furr:Does somebody know where to get screw terminals with 2.54 mm pin distance from?<a href="https://infosec.exchange/tags/diyelectronics" class="mention hashtag" rel="nofollow noopener" target="_blank">#diyelectronics</a> <a href="https://infosec.exchange/tags/electronics" class="mention hashtag" rel="nofollow noopener" target="_blank">#electronics</a>

BonkersI want to do a fun project with my kids: a smash Enter key, the one you can bang as hard as you want. I only need to convince them to start soldering and trying the things together.<a href="https://nerdculture.de/tags/hardwarehacking" class="mention hashtag" rel="nofollow noopener" target="_blank">#hardwarehacking</a> <a href="https://nerdculture.de/tags/diyelectronics" class="mention hashtag" rel="nofollow noopener" target="_blank">#diyelectronics</a> <a href="https://nerdculture.de/tags/arduino" class="mention hashtag" rel="nofollow noopener" target="_blank">#arduino</a>

botvolutionOk all you electronical gurus.I've got a diode that looks exactly the same as my known LL4148s but I suspect might actually be a 5v1 Zener.What can I do (if anything) to check, assuming that my only test equipment is my Middle-of-Lidl multimeter ((which does actually have a diode test setting )?<a href="https://mastodon.sdf.org/tags/DIYelectronics" class="mention hashtag" rel="nofollow noopener" target="_blank">#DIYelectronics</a>

Webster LeoneI do not know if this is a good way to flip USB traces, but now both D+ and D- use one via each, rather than D+ using two vias and the other using none, and both lines are the same length so I don't need any copper rotini to tune the length of one of the legs, so... 🤷‍♀️<a href="https://meemu.org/tags/diyelectronics" class="mention hashtag" rel="nofollow noopener" target="_blank">#diyelectronics</a>

RommudohI designed a <a href="https://social.tchncs.de/tags/SMD" class="mention hashtag" rel="nofollow noopener" target="_blank">#SMD</a> adapter board using <a href="https://fosstodon.org/@kicad" class="u-url mention" rel="nofollow noopener" target="_blank">@kicad</a> and let <a href="https://aisler.social/@aislerhq" class="u-url mention" rel="nofollow noopener" target="_blank">@aislerhq</a> manufacture them. They are for <a href="https://social.tchncs.de/tags/SOT23" class="mention hashtag" rel="nofollow noopener" target="_blank">#SOT23</a> on one side and <a href="https://social.tchncs.de/tags/SOT363" class="mention hashtag" rel="nofollow noopener" target="_blank">#SOT363</a> on the other side. They bridge the gap of a <a href="https://social.tchncs.de/tags/solderless" class="mention hashtag" rel="nofollow noopener" target="_blank">#solderless</a> <a href="https://social.tchncs.de/tags/breadboard" class="mention hashtag" rel="nofollow noopener" target="_blank">#breadboard</a>, so they are perfect for <a href="https://social.tchncs.de/tags/prototyping" class="mention hashtag" rel="nofollow noopener" target="_blank">#prototyping</a> circuits or trying out new components - or as replacement for through-hole parts. I soldered a dual diode <a href="https://social.tchncs.de/tags/BAV70" class="mention hashtag" rel="nofollow noopener" target="_blank">#BAV70</a> on one and a dual NPN/PNP transistor <a href="https://social.tchncs.de/tags/BC847BPN" class="mention hashtag" rel="nofollow noopener" target="_blank">#BC847BPN</a> on a second one to try them out. I'm satisfied how they look, although the white area for labeling is a bit small - I need a thinner pen for that. You can find the shared project here: <a href="https://aisler.net/p/UTAGNLYX" rel="nofollow noopener" translate="no" target="_blank">https://aisler.net/p/UTAGNLYX</a> (trying out this feature, please give feedback if you use it). <a href="https://social.tchncs.de/tags/diyelectronics" class="mention hashtag" rel="nofollow noopener" target="_blank">#diyelectronics</a> <a href="https://social.tchncs.de/tags/soldering" class="mention hashtag" rel="nofollow noopener" target="_blank">#soldering</a> <a href="https://social.tchncs.de/tags/kicad" class="mention hashtag" rel="nofollow noopener" target="_blank">#kicad</a> <a href="https://social.tchncs.de/tags/aisler" class="mention hashtag" rel="nofollow noopener" target="_blank">#aisler</a>

The Oasis BBSRebuilding a Safer Commodore 64 Wedge Power Supply <a href="https://techhub.social/tags/Commodore64" class="mention hashtag" rel="nofollow noopener" target="_blank">#Commodore64</a> <a href="https://techhub.social/tags/RetroComputing" class="mention hashtag" rel="nofollow noopener" target="_blank">#RetroComputing</a> <a href="https://techhub.social/tags/C64" class="mention hashtag" rel="nofollow noopener" target="_blank">#C64</a> <a href="https://techhub.social/tags/VintageComputers" class="mention hashtag" rel="nofollow noopener" target="_blank">#VintageComputers</a> <a href="https://techhub.social/tags/PowerSupply" class="mention hashtag" rel="nofollow noopener" target="_blank">#PowerSupply</a> <a href="https://techhub.social/tags/DIYElectronics" class="mention hashtag" rel="nofollow noopener" target="_blank">#DIYElectronics</a> <a href="https://techhub.social/tags/Retrogaming" class="mention hashtag" rel="nofollow noopener" target="_blank">#Retrogaming</a> <a href="https://techhub.social/tags/PCBDesign" class="mention hashtag" rel="nofollow noopener" target="_blank">#PCBDesign</a> <a href="https://techhub.social/tags/HomebrewHardware" class="mention hashtag" rel="nofollow noopener" target="_blank">#HomebrewHardware</a> <a href="https://theoasisbbs.com/rebuilding-a-safer-commodore-64-wedge-power-supply/?feed_id=2347&_unique_id=67dd63c01e2ff" rel="nofollow noopener" translate="no" target="_blank">https://theoasisbbs.com/rebuilding-a-safer-commodore-64-wedge-power-supply/?feed_id=2347&_unique_id=67dd63c01e2ff</a>

Patch ArcanaI am just thrilled beyond belief to announce that, a full day ahead of schedule, I am releasing the newest version of the PETI firmware, version 0.5.0. This update, the Audio and Hygiene update, adds PWM-driven audio and the whole goofy poop mechanic to the game, as well as some minor QoL improvements.<a href="https://www.arcanalabs.ca/news/labnotes/peti/2025/03/18/PETI-0-5-0-release.html" rel="nofollow noopener" translate="no" target="_blank">https://www.arcanalabs.ca/news/labnotes/peti/2025/03/18/PETI-0-5-0-release.html</a><a href="https://furry.engineer/tags/virtualpet" class="mention hashtag" rel="nofollow noopener" target="_blank">#virtualpet</a> <a href="https://furry.engineer/tags/maker" class="mention hashtag" rel="nofollow noopener" target="_blank">#maker</a> <a href="https://furry.engineer/tags/electronics" class="mention hashtag" rel="nofollow noopener" target="_blank">#electronics</a> <a href="https://furry.engineer/tags/microcontrollers" class="mention hashtag" rel="nofollow noopener" target="_blank">#microcontrollers</a> <a href="https://furry.engineer/tags/diyelectronics" class="mention hashtag" rel="nofollow noopener" target="_blank">#diyelectronics</a>

John_NewallDecided my game console deserved a case. <a href="https://fosstodon.org/tags/3dprinting" class="mention hashtag" rel="nofollow noopener" target="_blank">#3dprinting</a> <a href="https://fosstodon.org/tags/blender" class="mention hashtag" rel="nofollow noopener" target="_blank">#blender</a> <a href="https://fosstodon.org/tags/electronics" class="mention hashtag" rel="nofollow noopener" target="_blank">#electronics</a> <a href="https://fosstodon.org/tags/attiny85" class="mention hashtag" rel="nofollow noopener" target="_blank">#attiny85</a> <a href="https://fosstodon.org/tags/microcontroller" class="mention hashtag" rel="nofollow noopener" target="_blank">#microcontroller</a> <a href="https://fosstodon.org/tags/diyelectronics" class="mention hashtag" rel="nofollow noopener" target="_blank">#diyelectronics</a>

Chi ha ucciso Il Conte?prototyping with an esp32 and MAX98357A amp <a href="https://c.im/tags/ESP32" class="mention hashtag" rel="nofollow noopener" target="_blank">#ESP32</a> <a href="https://c.im/tags/Arduino" class="mention hashtag" rel="nofollow noopener" target="_blank">#Arduino</a> <a href="https://c.im/tags/IoT" class="mention hashtag" rel="nofollow noopener" target="_blank">#IoT</a> <a href="https://c.im/tags/Maker" class="mention hashtag" rel="nofollow noopener" target="_blank">#Maker</a> <a href="https://c.im/tags/DIYElectronics" class="mention hashtag" rel="nofollow noopener" target="_blank">#DIYElectronics</a> <a href="https://c.im/tags/EmbeddedSystems" class="mention hashtag" rel="nofollow noopener" target="_blank">#EmbeddedSystems</a> <a href="https://c.im/tags/Hardware" class="mention hashtag" rel="nofollow noopener" target="_blank">#Hardware</a> <a href="https://c.im/tags/AudioAmplifier" class="mention hashtag" rel="nofollow noopener" target="_blank">#AudioAmplifier</a> <a href="https://c.im/tags/MAX98357A" class="mention hashtag" rel="nofollow noopener" target="_blank">#MAX98357A</a> <a href="https://c.im/tags/Electronics" class="mention hashtag" rel="nofollow noopener" target="_blank">#Electronics</a> <a href="https://c.im/tags/Tech" class="mention hashtag" rel="nofollow noopener" target="_blank">#Tech</a> <a href="https://c.im/tags/Coding" class="mention hashtag" rel="nofollow noopener" target="_blank">#Coding</a> <a href="https://c.im/tags/Microcontroller" class="mention hashtag" rel="nofollow noopener" target="_blank">#Microcontroller</a> <a href="https://c.im/tags/Prototyping" class="mention hashtag" rel="nofollow noopener" target="_blank">#Prototyping</a> <a href="https://c.im/tags/desing" class="mention hashtag" rel="nofollow noopener" target="_blank">#desing</a> <a href="https://c.im/tags/physicalcomputing" class="mention hashtag" rel="nofollow noopener" target="_blank">#physicalcomputing</a>

MakerinatorI invented the Decision-Inator to automate dinner dilemmas with my wife. <a href="https://youtube.com/shorts/2Evhra5Ua0k" rel="nofollow noopener" translate="no" target="_blank">https://youtube.com/shorts/2Evhra5Ua0k</a> <a href="https://mastodon.social/tags/RaspberryPi" class="mention hashtag" rel="nofollow noopener" target="_blank">#RaspberryPi</a> <a href="https://mastodon.social/tags/Flutter" class="mention hashtag" rel="nofollow noopener" target="_blank">#Flutter</a> <a href="https://mastodon.social/tags/DIYElectronics" class="mention hashtag" rel="nofollow noopener" target="_blank">#DIYElectronics</a> <a href="https://mastodon.social/tags/Maker" class="mention hashtag" rel="nofollow noopener" target="_blank">#Maker</a>

RommudohAll holes have been drilled and components inserted, except the LEDs - have to decide on the color first. After that I'll have to wire it all up. And then, when the PCB arrives, solder that up and plug everything together. Still, it's a nice feeling to hold it in my hands like that and fiddling with the controls. <a href="https://social.tchncs.de/tags/diysynth" class="mention hashtag" rel="nofollow noopener" target="_blank">#diysynth</a> <a href="https://social.tchncs.de/tags/diyelectronics" class="mention hashtag" rel="nofollow noopener" target="_blank">#diyelectronics</a> <a href="https://social.tchncs.de/tags/electronics" class="mention hashtag" rel="nofollow noopener" target="_blank">#electronics</a> <a href="https://social.tchncs.de/tags/synthesizer" class="mention hashtag" rel="nofollow noopener" target="_blank">#synthesizer</a> <a href="https://social.tchncs.de/tags/sequencer" class="mention hashtag" rel="nofollow noopener" target="_blank">#sequencer</a>

RommudohI fixed the mistake with the <a href="https://social.tchncs.de/tags/MOSFET" class="mention hashtag" rel="nofollow noopener" target="_blank">#MOSFET</a> and didn't even have to turn it on its back. I lost one in the attempt to bend the legs. Now the power gets cut when it's over 5.53 Volts. Both LEDs turn off then, but fixing that would require cutting traces underneath the <a href="https://social.tchncs.de/tags/comparator" class="mention hashtag" rel="nofollow noopener" target="_blank">#comparator</a>, which I don't want to unsolder again. Time to attach a cable and use it for protecting my <a href="https://social.tchncs.de/tags/Commodore" class="mention hashtag" rel="nofollow noopener" target="_blank">#Commodore</a> <a href="https://social.tchncs.de/tags/C64" class="mention hashtag" rel="nofollow noopener" target="_blank">#C64</a> <a href="https://social.tchncs.de/tags/diyelectronics" class="mention hashtag" rel="nofollow noopener" target="_blank">#diyelectronics</a> <a href="https://social.tchncs.de/tags/electronics" class="mention hashtag" rel="nofollow noopener" target="_blank">#electronics</a>

RommudohToday my new <a href="https://social.tchncs.de/tags/PCBs" class="mention hashtag" rel="nofollow noopener" target="_blank">#PCBs</a> arrived. The first is an adaptation of Stefan Wagner's <a href="https://social.tchncs.de/tags/C64" class="mention hashtag" rel="nofollow noopener" target="_blank">#C64</a> Power Guard: <a href="https://oshwlab.com/wagiminator/c64-power-guard" rel="nofollow noopener" translate="no" target="_blank">https://oshwlab.com/wagiminator/c64-power-guard</a> I changed some components to what I had available. Thanks <a href="https://aisler.social/@aislerhq" class="u-url mention" rel="nofollow noopener" target="_blank">@aislerhq</a> for manufacturing them. Only I messed up two small details. The second <a href="https://social.tchncs.de/tags/comparator" class="mention hashtag" rel="nofollow noopener" target="_blank">#comparator</a> is backwards, so the error <a href="https://social.tchncs.de/tags/LED" class="mention hashtag" rel="nofollow noopener" target="_blank">#LED</a> is practically the same as the power good LED. And I also put in the <a href="https://social.tchncs.de/tags/MOSFET" class="mention hashtag" rel="nofollow noopener" target="_blank">#MOSFET</a> backwards. I'll try to mount it on its back and rotated tomorrow. <a href="https://social.tchncs.de/tags/PCBfails" class="mention hashtag" rel="nofollow noopener" target="_blank">#PCBfails</a> <a href="https://social.tchncs.de/tags/deadbug" class="mention hashtag" rel="nofollow noopener" target="_blank">#deadbug</a> <a href="https://social.tchncs.de/tags/diyelectronics" class="mention hashtag" rel="nofollow noopener" target="_blank">#diyelectronics</a> <a href="https://social.tchncs.de/tags/electronics" class="mention hashtag" rel="nofollow noopener" target="_blank">#electronics</a> <a href="https://social.tchncs.de/tags/soldering" class="mention hashtag" rel="nofollow noopener" target="_blank">#soldering</a>

RommudohFinished <a href="https://social.tchncs.de/tags/soldering" class="mention hashtag" rel="nofollow noopener" target="_blank">#soldering</a>. What I learned so far: l should clean between soldering <a href="https://social.tchncs.de/tags/SMD" class="mention hashtag" rel="nofollow noopener" target="_blank">#SMD</a> components and <a href="https://social.tchncs.de/tags/throughhole" class="mention hashtag" rel="nofollow noopener" target="_blank">#throughhole</a> ones. I should leave enough space between the SMD components. I also dislike 0806 <a href="https://social.tchncs.de/tags/resistors" class="mention hashtag" rel="nofollow noopener" target="_blank">#resistors</a>, better get some in 1206 size. The <a href="https://social.tchncs.de/tags/capacitors" class="mention hashtag" rel="nofollow noopener" target="_blank">#capacitors</a> were okay. I tried it out with a square and a triangle wave as two inputs, connected through <a href="https://social.tchncs.de/tags/potentiometers" class="mention hashtag" rel="nofollow noopener" target="_blank">#potentiometers</a> on a mini <a href="https://social.tchncs.de/tags/breadboard" class="mention hashtag" rel="nofollow noopener" target="_blank">#breadboard</a> and looked at the <a href="https://social.tchncs.de/tags/oscilloscope" class="mention hashtag" rel="nofollow noopener" target="_blank">#oscilloscope</a> <a href="https://social.tchncs.de/tags/diyelectronics" class="mention hashtag" rel="nofollow noopener" target="_blank">#diyelectronics</a> <a href="https://social.tchncs.de/tags/electronics" class="mention hashtag" rel="nofollow noopener" target="_blank">#electronics</a> <a href="https://social.tchncs.de/tags/diysynth" class="mention hashtag" rel="nofollow noopener" target="_blank">#diysynth</a>

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